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Riding the Coastline Trail
Half Moon Bay
Neil Wiley
Are you looking for a family-friendly day trip or
weekend on the coast? Consider visiting the Half Moon Bay area.
Enjoy easy trails for biking, horseback riding, or walking. Rent an
easy-to-ride coaster-brake bike, a horse, surf board, ocean-going
kayak, or fishing boat. If you want to spend the night, choose from
small bed-and-breakfast inns, motels, or the fancy Ritz-Carlton. You
have lots of easy choices to shape your experience on our nearby
coast.
Your excursion begins with a pleasant drive up
Highway One past Wilder Ranch, Año Nuevo, Pigeon Point Lighthouse,
Pescadero, and miles of beaches, crashing surf, and cool, fresh air.
Even with frequent stops, you can reach Half Moon Bay in a few
hours.
If your family is like mine, the first stop is
for food. For a restaurant, deli, or grocery, bear right on Main
Street as you enter the town. As you drive along Main, small brown
street signs direct you to parks, museums, and other points of
interest. One recommended place for good, inexpensive food is the
San Benito House Garden Deli. (You’ll find it by turning left off
Main one block past Kelly.) Continuing on Main you’ll see several
shopping centers where you can buy supplies.
Ready to choose your exercise? If you want to get
out on the ocean, go to the wharf area on the north side of town. As
you near the harbor, you’ll see a kayak-rental facility on the left.
On the right, nearer the harbor, you’ll see fishing party-boat
rentals.
Rather surf? If you are new to surfing, call
David Alexander (650-726-8686). He offers private, semi-private, and
group surf lessons and camps. If you are experienced, head out to
Pillar Point and the famous Maverick’s surfing area, or try the less
challenging beach area to the south of Pillar Point Harbor.
(Caution: Before surfing, be sure to check current conditions.)
If you would rather look at the ocean than get in
it, you can walk or ride Half Moon Bay’s Coastside Trail. Although
this trail runs from
Redondo Beach in the south to Pillar Point in the north, the most
well-developed, paved sections most suitable for family bicycling
and walking are from Poplar Avenue to Miramar. You can drive in from
Highway One, and park next to the trail at Poplar Avenue, Kelly
Avenue, Venice Boulevard, or Young Avenue. The trail follows scenic
ocean bluffs, with paths leading down to the sandy state beaches.
The paved trail is relatively flat and well-developed with many park
benches, several picnicking and camping areas, and bathrooms. It is
wheelchair-accessible and stroller-friendly. Dogs are allowed on
leash on the trail but not on the state beaches. At Francis Beach,
the first mile of the trail runs parallel to an equestrian trail
separated by a fence. After crossing two wooden bridges, the bike
and horse trails briefly merge, then separate. The paved path starts
at Poplar Beach, and passes three state park beach areas: Francis,
Venice, and Dunes. The paved section is about five miles in length,
but you can extend the hike north to the harbor, or south to higher
bluffs on dirt trails.
Where do I find a bicycle? If you don’t own a
bicycle or would rather not transport one or more on your car, call
David Alexander at 650-726-8686, or visit www.BikeRec.com. Dave can
arrange to deliver easy-to-ride cruiser bikes to your hotel or a
trail parking lot at a specified time.
If you prefer riding a four-legged beast instead,
call Sea Horse Ranch at 650-726-9903. They offer escorted two-hour
beach and trail rides, beach barbecues, and other equine-related
activities.
My ride
I met David Alexander near the Poplar Avenue
parking lot. He had a clean, blue bike for me, complete with coaster
brakes, key lock, and chain. He also offered me a helmet. Although I
hadn’t ridden a bike for ten years or so, and I carried a heavy pack
with two cameras, several lenses, and enough food for several days,
it is true that you don’t forget how to ride a bicycle. In fact, it
was amazingly easy, especially since the trail was paved and flat.
I stopped often to take pictures, and walked down
several paths to the beach. The trail passed through stands of
coyote brush, lupine, and oxalis. I was surprised that many spring
flowers were still blooming in August, perhaps due to Half Moon
Bay’s summer fogs. (Your best chance for clear skies is in
November.) I was impressed by the cleanliness and order of the
Francis Beach Campground, and enjoyed seeing people having fun
kite-flying, kayaking, riding their horses on the beach, or
contemplating the ocean from benches along the way.
Although the trail officially stops at Mirada
Way, I followed the beach-side road to the Miramar Beach Restaurant,
where I enjoyed a mildly expensive lunch and a good ocean view.
Continuing on, I followed the road almost to Highway One before
turning north on a dirt trail. At times, the trail took me to the
very edge of Highway One, where I walked the bike. The trail
improved, and I was able to ride on to Half Moon Bay harbor to see
the fishing boats, kayaks for rent, and a few fishing families.
I backtracked to the Poplar parking lot, then
continued south on a dirt trail. The bluffs were higher and the
trail was rutted dirt, and although I enjoyed this extension, it
could be too dangerous for children.
Hiking to history
After I returned the bike to Dave, I drove south
on Highway One to Higgins Purisima Road where I turned left. (The
first sign is labeled Higgins Canyon.) I passed a fire station on
the left and two historic buildings on the right—the beautiful
"saltbox"-style James Johnston House (built between 1853 and 1855)
and the Kelly Avenue Train Depot (used from 1908 to 1920). The
Johnston House is open for tours once a month.
I drove on for 1.6 miles to the Burleigh Murray
State Park parking lot, and then walked through a quiet hidden
valley for over a mile to see an unusual barn. Built in 1889, this
long two-story dairy barn is built into the side of the hill. A ramp
to the second floor enabled wagons to deliver hay to the loft
without lifting. The barn also curves to fit the curvature of the
hill. Listed in the National Register of Historic Places, this
unique barn is now being restored.
The walk itself was worthwhile, passing through
forests featuring some of the largest eucalyptus trees I’ve ever
seen, some nice, small streams, and at least one 18-inch-long garter
snake.
Driving home
Rather than backtracking home on Highway One, I
drove back north through town to Highway 92, and east up to Skyline
Boulevard. It was a great drive down Skyline in my little Solstice,
with the top down, the Scott’s Inside Man on the CD player,
and the sun playing through the trees. Days like this remind me that
we live in a place worth celebrating.
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